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Lakefront hot springs and history meet at a remote Oregon resort

By Jean Chen Smith

|Updated

Driving up to The Lodge at Hot Lake Springs in La Grande, Oregon, you might be struck by the grandeur of the building. Situated at the base of Craig Mountain and overlooking the expanse of the Grande Ronde Valley, the sprawling property with its neon sign “Hot Lake Springs” is a blend of stark isolation and historical intrigue. Travelers come for the hot springs but stay for the beauty of the area — and you don’t have to be a guest of the hotel to experience it.

Fifteen rooms have recently been renovated and furnished with mid-century modern accents. Rooms and suites range from cozy to spacious, featuring original brick wall accents while offering modern amenities such as air conditioning and updated bathrooms —some with soaking tubs. A remodeled 60-seat movie theater offers guests entertainment during their visit. The lively Thermal Pub & Eatery is open from 2 to 9:30 p.m. (with lunch being added by summer, owner Michael Rysavy says) and offers light snacks and an extensive beer list. 

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The main attractions are the five soaking pools situated along the lake, where guests can settle into the hot waters and relax. Steam rises from the pools fed daily by approximately 2 million gallons of water that come from the mineral-enriched hot springs. The resort's rural location lends to its charm. 

The lodge has a rich history dating back to the 1800s as a stopping point along the Oregon Trail for travelers headed to California for the Gold Rush, according to its website. The original building, constructed in 1864, was occupied by a blacksmith and various other businesses. In the early 1900s, the property transitioned to a hotel with over 100 rooms; it served both as a “sanitorium" as well as guest lodging, the website says. The big draw was the purported benefits of the healing mineral waters; people came from all over the country to visit and experience the springs. In 1934, a massive fire tore through the hotel and destroyed nearly the entire structure except for a brick building which had been a late add-on, according to the website.

From early 1940 to the 1970s, the property operated as a nursing home and later as a night club. It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in the 1970s and abandoned from the late 1980s until 2003, according to Michael and his wife, Tamarah. It was then, the Rysavys said via email, that the previous owners Lee and David Manuel purchased the property, renovated it, and named it the Hot Lake Hotel, which they ran as a bed and breakfast. 

The Rysavys stumbled upon the hotel while traveling and visiting hot springs all over the country; they've visited approximately 400 and even met at one, Michael shares. They first purchased Grande Hot Springs RV Resort, which sits about a half-mile up the road from the lodge, in 2013. When the Manuels decided to sell the hotel years later, the couple jumped at the opportunity with a vision for its restoration as a sanctuary for rest and relaxation, far from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. 

“We are trying to create a curated experience,” Michael said via email. “No TVs in rooms or anywhere on the property; 24-hour access to the hot springs for overnight guests. We want people to arrive and relax, unplug and reconnect. The environment encourages spending time with people and engaging in conversation, being in the moment with your partner, and a focus on rest and relaxation. This truly is a one-of-a-kind destination.”

Day passes for non-guests are available for $20 with reservations. The hotel is not pet friendly and does not allow children under the age of 12 years old.

Jean Chen Smith is a freelance writer covering style and travel.